Copyright © Jupiter Infomedia Ltd. All rights reserved including the right to reproduce the contents in whole or in part in any form or medium without the express written permission of Jupiter Infomedia Ltd. Due to the regal patronage of kings, the handicrafts of Jaisalmer has gained reputation. Pashmina (also known as Pashm) is a fine cashmere wool, coming from Kashmir in India and some parts of Nepal. Subscribe to Free E-Magazine on Art & Culture. Sholapitha is the craft of West Bengal where flowers and other variety of articles are made from shola. It had an aim of preserving and promoting the art and craft of the people of Gangtok. Another type of needle embroidery is popularly known as Papier Mache work because of the design and the style in which it is executed. And an essential part of that is the attire of the people. This form of embroidery is also used for bags, carpets, wall hangings, room dividers and so forth. A double-knotted carpet has a pile that bends when you brush it one way with your hand, and stands upright when it is brushed in other direction. PheransThis garment, somewhere between a coat and a cloak, is eminently suited to the Kashmiri way of life. As patterns were dictated from Europe, there was a two-year gap between the design being sent out to Kashmir, and the return of the finished product, so that the latest shawls were already outmoded by the time they arrived. The all-over patterns worked with delicate fill-in stitches are produced even today and can stand well against the finest products of the world. Till now around 365 products have been added to the GI list. Be the first to rate this product. The Jacquard loom, first used in 1818 by French weavers, greatly simplified the weaving of complicated designs. In order to cut down on import costs, the rearing of pashmina-bearing goats is being encouraged in the high, arid Changthang region of Ladakh. Basically, the more knots per square inch, the greater its value and durability. During that time the most desired shawls were those worked in gold and silver thread or shawls with border ornamented with fringes of gold, silver and silk thread.The majority of the woollen fabrics of Kashmir, and particularly the best quality shawls, were and are still made of Pashm or Pashmina, which is the wool of the Capra hircus, a species of the wild Asian mountain goat. There are two grades of pashmina. This in turn influenced the design of shawls in Kashmir. Pashmina yarn is spun from the hair of the ibex found at 14,000 ft. above the sea level, although pure pashmina is expensive, the cost is sometimes brought down by blending it with rabbit fur or with wool. The word ‘Pashmina’ comes from the Persian word ‘Pashmineh’ which means ‘made from Pashm’, and Pash means wool in Persian. It also has much longer life and will never fade or tarnish. They do not run across the full width of the cloth but are by wooden spools known as tojli, woven back and forth across each section of the warp threads using the particular thread required by that part of the pattern. A strand of yarn is looped through the warp and weft, knotted and then cut. The second grade comes from the fleece of domesticated goats and it is this grade that has always provided the main bulk of the yarn used by Kashmir looms. More often than not, the fabric that is used is usually white or cream colored while the threads can be as colorful as the designer desires them to be. Wool woven in Kashmir is raffal and is 100% pure. Various musical instruments used include Harmonium, Sitar, Santoor, Rabab etc. Comes with matching pants but no stole. The classical Kashmir shawl was woven out of Pashmina wool, whose main source was the fleece of a central Asian species of mountain goat, the Capra Hicus. Arabic format is adopted as a writing script. Later cheaper imitations of these shawls were woven in England and France, thereby ruining the market for the original handwork of Kashmir. Developed and refined by the Kashmiri artisans to make the fabric of incredible lightness, strength and lustre, this process is believed to retain the uniqueness of Pashm - the reason why bona fide Pashmina … Only the needle workers were able to salvage something by turning to the embroidery of coverlets, tablecloths and other domestic items for the home and tourist market. The native of Kashmiri people lives in Pakistan, Upper Punjab and Potohar where they organize a group and live together. High in the plateau of Tibet and the eastern part of Ladakh, at an altitude of above 5,000 meters, roam Pantholops Hodgosoni or Tibetan antelope. a town, region, or country). The songs are suited for different occasions. Secondly, the Franco- Prussian War of 1870 meant the complete collapse of the French market for Kashmir. In the case of pure shahtoosh too, there are many qualities-the yarn can be spun so skillfully as to resemble a strand of silk. Silk usually have cotton base. Ain-e-Akbari written during the time of Akbar, mentions them. Also there are single and double-knotted carpets. We also offer the option of customizing apparel and home decor products. Mens pherans are always made of tweed or coarse wool; womens pherans, somewhat more stylized, are most commonly made of raffel, with designs of ari or hook embroidery at the throat, cuffs and edges. Send as e-card. Gold is used on most objects, either as the only color, or as the highlight for certain motifs, and besides the finish of the product, it is the quality of the gold used which determines the price. All the embroidery is executed on white cotton fabric, pre-shrunk by the manufacturers. These hand felted carpets from Kashmir are a heirloom tradition of 500 yrs. Darjeeling tea was the first product that got a GI tag in India in 2004–05. Exclusive. An Armenian named Khwaja Yusuf, who visited Kashmir in 1803 as a buying agent for a Constantinople firm, introduced the concept of the amli, or needlework shawl, which would imitate the loom-woven shawl but would be much less expensive to produce and would escape the government duties levied on loom woven shawls. Hence the shawls … Cl.8: BO5D 1/00, DO4H, DO6L 3/00, DO6L 1/06, DO6L 1/14, DO6L 1/00, DO6P, B65H, F26B 13/00, DO1B 3/00, DO1B 5/00 Kashmir, the paradise on earth is known all over the All-over embroidery designs worked in either a trellis pattern known, as jal or hunting scenes known as shikargah were very popular. Sometimes a shawl was offered as a ransom for the king or offered as tax in recognition of the suzerainty of a powerful ruler. Only if one watches the manufacture of carpets, one can realise the amount of skill involved in its making. Wool is almost invariably used in Crewelwork and color ways are not as elaborate as in Chain stitch. These shawls have come to be known as Kalu shawls though they are woven all over the Himachal region. Unlike woolen or Pashmina shawls, Shahtoosh is seldom dyed-that would be rather like dyeing gold! Add to Wishlist. Thus, expensive Kashmir shawls were both priced out of the market and had lost the cachet and exclusivity of high fashion. Every product is 100% hand-spun, Handwoven Luxurious product using centuries old traditional processes(woven on Traditional looms NOT on Hand-loom). It is also Chain stitch done on White background, but here the motifs, mainly stylish flowers, do not cover the entire surface, and the background is not embroidered upon. Keywords: Handicrafts, Kashmir, Pashmina, Shawls, Traditional IPC Int. They vary in artistry and the choices of colors, and it is not difficult to tell a mediocre piece from an excellent one. When the dealer specifies the percentage of each yarn used, he is taking into account the yarn used for the base too. Pashmina wool Woven in the twill-tapestry technique, the weft threads of these shawls alone form the pattern. Geographical Indication (GI) Label on Kashmir Pashmina is a US patent stamp on the original ‘Kashmir Pashmina’ fabric or its products and is known as the G.I Mark. Jammu Province is bounded by the Ravi River to the east and the Jhelum to the west, and is bisected by the Chenab. Sweet Thyme Garden Fabric ~ Kashmir Gardens Collection by Sarah Campbell from Michael Miller Fabrics, 100% Cotton SassyandChicFabrics. Pashmina is synonymous with Kashmir; hence was called ‘cashmere’ when it spread to the west. The origin of most of the Indian crafts is from Rajasthan. Thus, when it comes to Thus, when it comes to In terms of cultural relevance, this style of embroidery is considered to be one of the leading cottage industries in Kashmir. The kani shawls, which are woven pashmina shawls, are also called jamewars and have an all-over pattern originally used in making the jama, the coat worn by men. Crewel fabric is a hand-embroidered fabric traditionally made in Kashmir. The carpet weaving became a gift of … Shola is a plant products that comes from Tropical montane forests of the hilly regions. Pashmina Fabric. Animals, flowers and insects as well as human figures are also part of the contemporary printing repertoire, with bedspreads, tablecloths, masnad (floor coverings) and yardage being the main articles of production. However if we go further up along the paths of historical archives of fashion, it can be found that this embroidery was also creatively initiated by the residents of Srinagar. You can quiet easily identify one from the other on the reverse of the carpet. Jammu lies in the foothills of the Himalayas, with easy communications to neighboring Punjab and Himachal Pradesh, and its textile tradition has much in common with that of the neighboring states. Phulkaris, similar in composition and technique to those of Punjab, were made in Jammu, as were rumals, in the Chamba style. Exports created a fashion market in Europe and very soon stimulated competition from there. Chain stitch or crewel work is essentially done by hook or ari no matter what the fabric of cloth is, it may be wool, cotton or silk but the crewel work on the white cotton cloth is much in demand in the rest of the world. Costumes of Jammu and Kashmir are well known for their embroidery and intricate designs, which reflects the richness of the culture and landscape of the region. Papier MacheAll Papier Mache objects, at the first glance, look almost the same and one always find the price difference quite unreasonable. There is today, however, output which has vivacity and individuality and matches masterful techniques with the beauty of classical design. Crewel works is also executed on curtains, rugs, wall hangings and is considered as one of the finest quality of embroidery work in Valley. The right side of it cannot be easily distinguished from the wrong side. Stretched tightly on a frame is the warp of Carpet. A Geographical Indication (GI) is a name or sign used on certain unique products which corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin (e.g. Kashmir used to be hub of western tourists but got converted … 1. A Namda containing 80% wool is more expensive than the one containing 20% wool. Throughout the mid nineteenth century, it was the European, specially the French taste, which dominated the shawl design in Kashmir. Most of the garments are made of wool, silk designed with intricate … During grazing, a few strands of the downy hair from the throat are shed and it is these, which are painstakingly collected until there are enough for a shawl. The yarn used normally is silk, wool or silk and wool. There are two grades of pashmina. Varnish, which is applied to the finished product, imparts a high gloss and smoothness, which increases with every coat. Tiny stitches are used to cover the entire area. There are three fibers from which the Kashmiri shawls are made- wool, Pashmina and shahtoosh. The Kasmir shawl is known all over the world for superfine quality of wool, its intricate designs and remarkable craftsmanship, a reputation it has had for centuries. On a visit to Kashmir you … And while on the subject of colors, it should be kept in mind that although the colors of Kashmiri carpets are more subtle and muted than elsewhere in the country, only chemical dyes are used-vegetable dyes have not been available now for about hundred years. Indeed, Samba is reputed to have been a centre of textile production long before many other famous Indian textile towns. Vegetable dyeing on hand-woven cotton sheets was once the norm, with sonehri (gold) and rupehri (silver) printing a speciality, but now aniline dyes are used on mill-made cloth. pronunciation, accent and sometimes meanings vary from Region to Region. Chain stitch embroidery in woolen and cotton thread is worked on these rugs. 2. The Himalayan, zone produces other varieties of shawls and tweeds too, but the local people make them primarily for their own use. The color-way of Carpet, and its details differentiate it from any other carpet. The intrinsic worth of each piece lies in the size of the stitches and the yarn used. To make Papier Mache, first paper is soaked in water till it disintegrates. Chain Stitch and Crewel FurnishingsBecause of the high quality of embroidery done on wall hangings and rugs, Kashmir is in great demand all over the world. The weaver throws the weft across and after that he calls out the design on the basis of which the different colored threads are woven in. The most popular pashmina fabric is a 70% pashmina/30% silk blend, but 50/50 is also common. Yes, from Kashmir to Kanyakumari, every region has its own handloom techniques that are used to weave many unique fabrics. Kashmiri embroidered fabric by the yard - curtain made to order | home decor fabric, Kashmir crewel handmade textile, upholstery fabric theshantihome. The chorten commemorative building, vajra, thunderbolt, and the swastika are the common motifs. 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